Shikoku

Shikoku, the least developed of the four major islands, is also where I spent the least amount of time riding.

The original plan was to arrive via ferry then spend another hour or so riding to an inland town for the night, but after riding in the rain all day and shivering through the two hour long ferry ride, I took the advice of a fellow passenger (who was on a motorcycle journey through Japan) to get a hotel and start fresh in them morning. I am so glad that I did.

After a dinner (and breakfast) at McDonald's to solidly address my calorie deficit, I set out in the rain. Instead of a route mostly inland that the ride the night before would have brought me on, I instead followed the coast of Shikoku towards my destination in the evening, Imabari. Starting out, the rain was so hard that I could barely see the road ahead of me. This was starting to get to be a pattern, with my clothes (especially my socks) soaked through within minutes of setting out in the morning. Setting my mind to the reality that I was in for a long, wet day, I was surprised to exit a long tunnel to find that the rain had started to fade away.

The day turned out to be a great one for riding, not too warm with smooth tarmac and plenty to keep my mind occupied. The coast was lined with small islands, an occasional ship passing by and the right mix of towns, enough to have a quick stop from time to time but not enough to create much traffic or dreaded traffic lights.

Like Kyushu, I wish I had more time on Shikoku. I saw just a glimpse of the island, and didn't have a chance to explore the citrus orchards, which are so famous for. What it did offer, though, was a chance to dry out, to get some distance in the journey and a taste of what rural life is like in another part of Japan. There are visual similarities to agricultural areas, no matter where you are in the world. The crop may change, but the pace of life is slower. Here, it is also clear that the majority of farmers are nearing the end of their lives. I have rarely seen a middle-aged or young farmer, with most being at or even past retirement age.

Two back-to-back 100 KM days were adding up, and I was happy to see Imabari coming close. Imabari is the end of the Shimanami Kaido (or, in my case, the gateway), and the hotels in the city all cater towards the many cyclists who are there to take on this route. There was no issue bringing my bike to my room, and in fact, the hotel advertises that bikes are welcome.

Arriving at the hotel put into motion what has now become a very predictable routine. I hop in the shower, thrilled to be shedding my bike gear for the day and happy to get the sweat and grime off my body. This is followed by a short lie down, not to fall asleep but just to be off my legs and to give my back a break. Hydration is happening throughout, and before long, it is time to get the laundry going. This takes about an hour and nicely brings me to dinner time. In Imabari, I had a great meal at a 'modern' Izakaya. The food was fantastic, capping off a great day on Shikoku. A full post (or two) will be written at some point highlighting all of the great meals I have had on this trip.

Day 5

Distance (day) - 111 km

Distance (total) - 410 km

Climbing (day) - 531 m

Climbing (total) - 3362 m

Convenience Stores (day) - 3

Convenience Stores (total) - 7

Tunnels (day) - 9

Tunnels (total) -28