Beginnings

I am on my way. The planning, the excitement of the possible, the nervousness of what could go wrong has moved from the theoretical to highly practical.

Decisions made on a tiny digital map about the route have begun to be converted into pedal strokes, a turn here that avoids a tunnel leads to a climb, another turn leads to a spectacular vista, unexpected only in the sense that the digital path doesn’t let you know just how beautiful places can be.

Southernmost point of the trip

The first day is in the books. The morning started with tearful goodbyes in Kyoto, H and O are on a train to the airport for their flight to China and I am onboard a Shinkansen, covering ground that will take me days and weeks to get back to in minutes. In less than five hours I arrived in Nagasaki, complete with two transfers that showcase the very best of Japanese punctuality and efficiency. The first, a leisurely 9 minutes. The second was 3 minutes, but in so many ways easier. The connection was on the same platform with the arriving train getting in and the next leaving exactly as scheduled. The only stress of the trip was the uncertainty of enough luggage space for my bike.

New Bike Day was celebrated in Nagasaki, getting the first few km’s of the ride into my legs and onto the bike. Getting used to the shifting, the handling and what my ride can do. The ride south was the only ride (I think) of this trip that will be a loop, allowing me to travel a little lighter with a bag left in the hotel. Despite this, the hills of Japan were a reminder that no amount of riding on an indoor trainer can prepare you for the grind of going up and the joy of coming down a hill. These sensations will happen often over the ride, with my legs having no choice but to get stronger as they tackle the spectacular path. the roads are smooth, but with the elevation and city riding, progress will be slower than I am used to. In Laos and India I am used to cruising along at around 30km an hour, but here I think I will be moving closer to 20km an hour. Which is, kind of the point. I am not in a race, not trying to get through this as quickly as I can. These are places that I am unlikely to return to, to pass them too quickly is to miss the point and with it, the views and lessons that can be learned. Taking it slower, progress rather than efficiency is the goal.

Nagasaki Islands

Distance (day) - 52 km

Distance (total) - 52 km

Climbing (day) - 518 m

Climbing (total) - 518 m

Convenience Stores - 1

Tunnels - 3